Central American - Bike Touring in the Sauna

Abanondoned shack in Panamanian swamp. 

One sleeplessness night in El Salvador, I was messaging with another cycle tourer about getting around the Darien Gap by human power. At first, the idea of paddling to Colombia seemed absurd, but after some research it actually seemed feasible. I decided to give it my honest effort. 

Due to limited route options and oppressive heat, I was rushing through central America. Also, I wanted to reach Colombia before mid-September, when I would fly to Seattle for a week for my grandpa's memorial service. So, I did little sightseeing between El Salvador and Panama City. 

Honduras

Honduras/El Salvador border

First meal in Honduras was barbequed meat, tortilla, egg, beans, vegetables and a drink. 100 Lempira/4USD. The food was good, although the meat was very chewy. I didn't like the drink because it tasted too much like fermented dairy in a bad way for me. 

2nd meal in Honduras was take-out Chinese.

I ordered fried wontons and they said it was gonna take 15 minutes. I said that's fine, and waited in the heavenly AC. They played a Jesus YouTube program on the TV. It took 45 minutes which I didn't really mind because there was AC, and they gave me some free fried rice because it took so long. Delicious food. It came with a sweet honey/ginger sauce. I hadn't realized I missed ginger.

I spent only one night in Honduras, behind a gas station.

On my way to the Nicaragua border I met Andreas.

Andreas road a pink Secialized road bike in the same direction as me. He kept passing me his ice-cold water bottle and snacks, so I felt like a professional cyclist receiving support. He grew up going to a dual language school in the capital of Honduras, then went to college in Florida, had a kid, broke up, and moved back to Honduras. Scuba diving is his passion.

Nicaragua

Pan-American highway in Nicaragua.

What kind of snake?

Nicaragua. Highway feels more safe because the divers are used to sharing the road with this sort of vehicle. 

I saw many anteaters, all of them roadkill. 

2 August 2023 Day 264

I held a lizard that was being sold as food.

The lizards were all tied up and it was kind of sad. But if they were suffering, I couldn't tell. They hunt the lizards with help from a dog. 

Entering Managua, capital of Nicaragua. 

Street food.

Asking local kid for camping advice.

4 August 2023 Day 266

I woke up this morning with another ant infestation inside the tent, and no place to shit. At least this guarantees a speedy departure. 

Bitten by a ton of ants again packing up. I shook them into a corner of the tent and sprayed them with bug spray. Hopefully it doesn't make the whole tent toxic.

Costa Rica

Nicaraguan immigration loves fees and paperwork. They gave me 6 different tickets and forms, and I paid three different fees. Costa Rica asked basic questions and gave a stamp. 

I've crossed four international borders in two weeks. These countries are smaller than many US states.

Costa Rica feels more "first world" for a few reasons. Less highway litter, many english-speakers, potable tap water. 

I found a powerline access road which looked infrequently used, and had a dead end. 

What bliss to finally have a solitary wild campsite with a view, and little concern of anyone even finding me. Wild camping is rare in central America. Tonight I'll eat rice and bean burrito with olive oil and salt. 

5 August 2023 Day 267

Today I rode on the highway. There were 'NO CICLISTAS' signs but I rode anyways. Around 4pm I took a sideroad which reconnects with the highway. I got permission to camp next to a community building/soccer field. I played soccer with the kids and they asked if I like limes. Yeah, I do like limes. 

So they went to a lime tree and picked some limes for me...thanks!

6 August 2023 Day 268

I rode nearly 5 hours before noon today. Later the highway narrowed into a two lane, undivided highway. This section mostly had no shoulder and seemed fairly dangerous to me. I don't understand why bikes were permitted on this section, but not the parts I rode yesterday, which seems much safer. 

In the afternoon I played my recorder in the park. I was approached by a violist on vacation from Berlin with his family. Impressively, he recognized I was playing Bach. They invited me to stay with them someday in Berlin and we traded contact information. He told me that baroque music actually has Latin American influence, and that there is a very good music school in Argentina. He made me think that perhaps it would be possible to play music as a career. 

Allan

I bought a coconut water and a watermelon and the guy gave me 5 coconuts worth of coconut meat for free. Above, he is filling plastic bags with coconut water. 

I asked for comida típica de Costa Rica and they gave me chicken, rice, beans, fried plantain, and some salad. 

It was delicious. They seemed a bit unsure at first as to how they could fulfill my request. It seems like Costa Rica doesn't have a strong culinary identity like Mexico.

Other countries import American culture. They import American fast food chains, American clothing, American TV. They don't seem to import American music though. This is surprising to me, because I appreciate American music (even when I don't listen to the lyrics) much more than our fast food, clothing, or television.  

Common store type in central America.

7 August 2023 Day 269

My contact in San Jose, Costa Rica was someone who is in an online Portuguese class with Guillermo. 

María, left (in Portuguese class), and her boyfriend, Carlos. I stayed with Carlos. 

Carlos worked remotely in cyber security, and María works as a medical Spanish/English interpreter. She explained that a translator worked in written language, while and interpreter works in spoken language. 

Comida típica, which Carlos gave to me. Rice and beans with cilantro, fried plantain, egg. Delicious!

Carlos and María were really cool, and I wish I could have stayed longer, but I now am focused on the kayak crossing to Colombia. 

10 August 2023 Day 272

In the afternoon I stop at a lechee stand. The seller offered me a seat and asked about my trip. We are the same age. She lives alone in nearby Turrialba, and wants to finish university, although it is very expensive there. I ask if there is nearby camping and she invites me to stay with her. The son of the lechee owner picks us up and drops us off near her house.

Her girlfriend is there and we all hang for a while, then go to bed early. They both work tomorrow at different lechee stands. 

Melissa, left. Cristal, right. Thank you for a place to stay. 

11 August 2023 Day 273

I take a longer, quieter road to the Caribbean coast.

In the afternoon I pull into a little town to get water and maybe wifi. Immediately people tell me it's really dangerous there, and ask if I want to marry their daughter. 

I leave and find camping next to the guard station at a shipping/truck stop area. 

Chiquita, formerly United Fruit Company, of the Banana Massacre.

Rail system used for transporting bananas out of the plantations. 

Jungle

12 August 2023 Day 274

My first time seeing the Caribbean/Atlantic on this trip! 

On the Caribbean coast. People of African ancestry. People from Jamaica. Jamaica is english-speaking and this coastline speaks a lot of english too. I hear Spanish with a Caribbean accent. 

Almond inside.

Fruit from genus Anona, I think. 

This 'Nature' themed hospedaje/hotel offers 24hour phone, air conditioning, hot water, wifi, gym, pool, parking, TV, dinner, and space for pets. I guess they enjoy nature from a safe distance. 

Wild camp in jungle at the beach.

Panama

13 August 2023 Day 275

I cross the border to Panama and rest in a park for the afternoon. 

When people hear I want to kayak to Colombia they think I'm so stupid. 

I could tell myself don't be discouraged. But I should listen to them, because maybe I ought to be discouraged. 

Perhaps people know about specific dangerous which I haven't yet considered. They usually don't. It's mostly the unknown which is scary. But fear of the unknown is quite reasonable. And there is still much unknown to me. Ways I could die which I haven't even imagined. Perhaps there are wonderful things which I haven't even imagined, too. 

I met a local who occasionally hosts cyclists passing through. I stay with him for only one night, because I am in a rush to reach Colombia. 

He was gone in the morning, but his very nice friend was there. Thank you.

14 August 2023 Day 276

I camp in a community park/outdoor area. 

A rotating group of 10-12 kids and teens oversees my entire evening and watches as I set up camp, cook, eat, and clean. In the tent at night I wear no clothes and I am still sweating.

15 August 2023 Day 277

Crossed over the mountains from the Caribbean side to the Pacific side of Panama:

Now I will take the Panamerican Highway the rest of the way to Panama City.

Many small stores are operated by Chinese immigrants, so I can buy Chinese dumplings at check-out:

Shumai dumplings.

20 August 2023 Day 282

Panama City skyline.

Panama canal.

Massive ship on the canal.

Crossing the canal.

I don't regret bike touring in Central America, but I wouldn't recommend it as a bike touring destination unless you plan on paying for a room with fan/AC regularly.

Next post will cover my kayak crossing from Panama to Colombia.